A Cusqueñan Experience: October 2008

Monday, October 27, 2008

The week before I went to the Amazon Basin, we spent a weekend in Ccoyllorpuquoi for project. (Pronounced coo-you-poon-koo... more or less.) That had to have been one of my favorite projects so far. The community built the roof of the kindergarten right along with us, mud stain for mud stain and scratch for scratch. The women took one look at the task at hand, stripped off their shoes and long colorful stockings, hooked their skirts into their belts, and plunged barefoot into the giant mud pit. They didn't really come out for the entire weekend, and working with them was such a blast. They taught us Quechua, we taught them English, we all spoke Spanish, and we got a kick out of watching them flirt with with the other boys on top of the house. They worked the mud with their feet all day long, wearing their village hats and thickly layered skirts. Braids down to the backs of their knees, layers of sweaters, llama wool braided into their hair... they were pretty cool.

Being there for a whole weekend allowed us to witness a little more of their lives there in the pueblo, which they gladly welcomed us into. We took a walk at dusk in the mountains, and saw the entire village shutting down for the night. The women started fires for dinner, the men either took care of the livestock or drank chicha, and the kids brought in the flocks for the night. That part was really neat to me for some reason. As soon as darkness fell they seemed to materialize out of nowhere, coming out of the mountains around us with their flocks and herds. The next day as I looked around I could see the little shepherds and shepherdesses up on the mountain slopes around us, but that night they just appeared out of the hills around us - goats, sheep, donkeys, horses, and a few llamas. It was pretty priceless.

Since the entire village was helping us with this project, we had a little bit more time to relax in between jobs. They made sure we drank their alcohol with them, which replaced their lunch. (Weird.) Chicha, the only one I enjoyed, was made out of corn that the women apparently chew up, spit out, and then allow to ferment. Not bad! The other one was China (like cheena), and it was vile. I thought it was water at first, because it was just clear. Then I thought it was straight up rubbing alcohol. It was neither - just some form of hard alcohol that the other girls compared to Vodka. lol I was not a fan. They also had us chew coca leaves, which to them is similar to chewing tobacco. Legend has it that this is how the Incas built their magnificent architecture - they didn't have to eat, hardly had to drink, just worked all day chewing coca leaves. It wasn't too bad - to me it just tasted like super strong tea. Quite an experience all around!

With the extra time we had, I had a blast with a couple of the kids. They just followed us around all day, jabbering in Quechua and hanging on our limbs when they were free. This time they took to kissing my camera for some reason - some how they equivocated that to actually giving a kiss to the person in the picture. By the time I got back my camera it was a little... wet... but hey, well worth their entertainment for half an hour.

Sometimes I don't know how to describe these people. Sometimes it breaks my heart to see them, other times they make it so full I can hardly believe it. It's very interesting.

A Glimpse of Ccoyllorpuquoi

Lunch break - or rather... Chicha break.

Starting construction on the roof.

The three girls who enthusiastically helped

used all day every day by working a giant mud puddle

with their bare feet.

What a surprise! This village was full of kids, too.

I... love them.

To Flirt

This may not be news to you, but flirting is universal. It's a fact! There are words in every language to express interest or affection, but one rarely needs them. A look in the eye speaks ten times louder, I'm convinced. You should have seen the kids in the village we worked in this weekend! The three young girls, about seventeen years old, that helped us make mud all day confirmed the power of a look, even if you don't believe in showers and are covered in mud. It was hilarious to watch them, and kinda cute, as from a very early age both boys and girls participate in every community activity. We had a blast watching them throw mud at and play with the boys standing on the walls building the roof of the kindergarten we were working on. There are just some things that do not change from culture to culture.

It was hilarious, and this is a random post but I just had to write about it a little.

Monday, October 13, 2008

Chicon Glacier -The Ascent

Layers of Mountains

Still on the way up - Which is why we

are still smiling!

From camp at night

Chicon Glacier Hike

Welcome back!

I have been anxiously awaiting the chance to update this blog for the past two weeks, because I have so many pictures and experiences I want to share with you! I can hardly believe it's been over a month since I arrived here in Cusco... But then, the speed at which time flies has never ceased to amaze me, so it probably shouldn't surprise me at all.

In the midst of classes, projects, and other random events that ProPeru keeps throwing at us, a few weekends ago we took off for a weekend to Urubamba, about an hour and a half outside of Cusco. We had a glacier hike in mind, Chicon glacier, but didn't really know exactly what we were getting into when we left. Little did I know it would turn out to be one of the most challenging and yet exhilarating experiences of my life.

Before we go any farther, I'll have you know that I was very nearly the only one of our group not from the midwest or east coast of the United States - our 'hometown' of Cusco, at 11,000 feet, is about the highest most of the girls have ever been. A very important fact, considering that when we returned and calculated the actual hight, it turned out to be 18,143 feet above sea level.

The hike took two days in all, and even then we barely made it down before dark on Sunday. We were led by six Peruvian guides, ages 12 - 19, who were amazed that 7 gringas were going to attempt to hike a glacier. But they were amazing, and carried all our food and water and snacks on their backs, cooking wonderfully filling Peruvian dishes for us over campfires at night. Without them, I can't imagine how we would have made it without falling off a cliff or getting lost!

After hiking nearly straight up for the entire first day, we camped at 16,000 feet for the night. It was absolutely awe-inspiring - in spite of the lack of oxygen and the frigid cold, there was no place else I'd have rather been. And if the fresh air (though it was thin) and excersize weren't enough, I got to witness the first sunset I had seen since coming to Peru - and it was one of the most breathtaking, jaw-dropping majestic I have ever seen. I could hardly believe my eyes, and I was the one standing on a cliff watching it. I put some pictures up, but I can hardly say they capture it.

After spending the night in the mud/straw hut at our camp, all squished together to keep warm, we rose early to make the final ascent to the glacier. This part was hardest, because every few steps we had to stop to breathe. (Our guides could have done the whole thing in one day, but they were pretty patient with us.) By the time we reached the top, we were celebrating - we had a snow/ice fight with our guides, we slid on the ice, and marveled at the different colored rocks. The rocks were alternately blood red, deep or baby blue, emerald green, grey and sparkling black. Quite the unexpected surprise!

The long hike down took us by a different route, which side cut across the cliffs east of the glacier. As we descended, a good portion of the trip was taken sitting down - just start sliding and stop when you hit the person (or rock) in front of you.

In the end, I would have to chock it up to one of the best experiences of my life. In spite of the fact that I ate cheese for breakfast every morning that made me incredibly ill, I enjoyed every minute of it. Oh, to be able to show you the reality of everything you could see from up there without dragging you up those 18,000 feet yourself! But on the other hand, the accomplishment made the view at the top that much more beautiful, so you'll just have to come here to Peru and hike it with me again. I'd love that more than anything.

Remember: Glaciers come highly recommended!

Enjoy a few pictures, and once again - drop me a note and let me know of all the goings-on in your life right now.

Thank you for your prayers and thoughts, and I am so glad to be able to share a few experiences with you through the internet!