Monday, September 29, 2008

Jungle Adventure

What was supposed to be a simple health campaign last weekend turned into quite the jungle adventure! Although it felt like everything went wrong that could possibly have gone wrong, it was quite a blast.
We started out at 4 a.m. from Urubamba, about an hour outside of Cusco. The trip from there to Ocobamba, the destination of the health campaign in the jungle, was expected to only take four hours, but due to an unforeseeable sequence of events, it took eight hours. The two buses we took turned out be be problematic, as within two hours one had broken an axle crossing the mountains, and the other couldn´t quite ford the many rivers in the jungle. Hence, we had a welcome delay in the rainforest for about two hours, as eight "gringas" tried to push the bus out of the river. We did succeed! But actually only with the help of a giant produce truck that happened to be going along the same deserted road that we got stuck on. Quite the start to a weekend!
In order to reach this jungle, we had to cross two mountain passes along the way. That was kind of mind boggling - stand on top of a 15,000 ft peak with others towering above us, and not three hours later start shedding layers as we descend into a raiforest at about 6,000 feet. But as we passed all that magnificent scenery in the Andes, we also passed countless tiny villages and large herds of alpacas, llamas, sheep, and donkeys. As we drove through a cloud at about 14,500, we came across a small mountain market. The villages are so small and spread apart that the locals travel in truckloads to the highest points in the area, and set up business alongside the roadways. It's freezing up there, of course, so they all have hug pots of steaming rice and vegetables and random stews, and they´re all dressed in layer upon layer of brightly colored clothing. Passing through these markets and llama herds felt strangely surreal.

Upon arrival in Ocobamba, a tiny jungle town, we almost immediately set up for the health clinic. We were traveling with Peruvian doctors, and at the clinic had a family doctor for general medicine, a dentist department, a laboratory, and an obstetrics department. We started the clinic around five (three hours late) and worked until about 9:00 (two hours late). The people, who only outside of the U.S. could have possibly been this nonchalant about such a delay, had walked for days to get here because health care in the jungle is so limited. The hardest part was diagnosing patients with cancer, for which no one could offer any cure, and turning people away after we closed our doors three hours later than scheduled at the end of the clinic. I had the privilege of working in obstertics and dentistry for a day each... quite an unexpected opportunity!

The night before we left, it rained. Jungle rain! It washed out the road that we had come in on, and so we had to take an alternative route. Predicted: eight hours. Reality: twenty four. After seven hours, we pulled into our halfway point, Quillabamba, at midnight. After being told that there was a mudslide blocking the road ahead of us, we decided to sleep for a few hours until they cleared it off. Sadly, the hostel (group hotel) had only 15 beds, so the 30 of us had to double up, two to a bed, for three hours of much needed sleep. We had an early breakfast at 4 a.m., and then piled back into the buses for about five hours of surprisingly uninterrupted travel.
By this time, my camera battery had died, so I didn´t get any pictures of the mudslide we encountered. But with traffic lined up on both sides and barely enough of a road cleared for one car to cross at a time, we waited for three hours on the mountain side. The people could not pass over the mudslide while inside the car or the road would collapse again, so through a painstakingly slow process all thirty of us and our two overweight buses passed: First one bus, then all the people ran across to avoid the still falling rocks. Then the other bus passed, and they cleared off the fresh fallen debris.
Needless to say, we were very happy to reach Cusco again, 24 hours after we left Ocobamba. However, it was an adventure that few of us would have traded for the world, and we passed some pretty spectacular scenery on the way! God was protecting us every step of the way, even in delaying us with rains to avoid getting crushed by the mudslide.

If you made it through this rather long narrative, I applaud you, and thank you for sticking with it! Your prayers and thoughts are much appreciated. :)
¡Hasta luego!

Ocobamba Health Campaign

Our Makeshift Pharmacy 
I was a dentist for a day!
Jackie and Emily in obstetrics...



Push one way...
Push the other way...
Two hours later: victory!

Crossing the Mountains



Roadside market, engulfed in a cloud (14,500 ft)

Stoves

Part of what endeared me to this program in the first place was the promise that we could participate in hands-on projects within the community. And true to their word, ProPeru has kept us busy every weekend with activities, trips, and construction projects. The most common construction project so far is the process of converting open fires to stoves with chimneys within each community. As of now, most of the indigenous people and surrounding communities cook their food inside their houses on open fires, which is a pretty big health problem. So every friday that we haven't got something else planned, we head to a different community in the Andes and build these stoves for them. 
Each stove is made out of six ceramic bricks, nine tuvos (chimney pieces), three ceramic top pieces, and a lot of mud. The mud has to be very fine, so often times when we get to a community and they don't have the right kind, we have to make it for them. With huge screens propped against tress or fence posts, we sift significant amounts of dirt by throwing shovel-fulls of dirt against the screens. Then we take the finely sifted dirt, mix it with the right amount of water, crumble straw in it to make it more durable, and occasionally throw in a bit of cement. With our hands, each piece is coated in water to make the mud stick, mud to fill in the cracks, and then put together. Every problem can be resolved with mud - add mud to make it more level, to make it taller, to make it stronger... In the end, most of the bricks aren't all that visible. After a day or two the mud dries, and the stove is clean, sturdy, and ready to use.
And the best part?

We get to play in the mud all day!

A Muddy Mess

Teamwork: A Hands-On Experience
The largest stove the program had yet seen, this one was designed to serve an Andean school.


The finished product (and out stoves project director, Jaime).

Miscellaneous Activities

      On the mountain above my house.

Horsebackriding through the mountains just outside Cusco -
spectacular views and impressive ruins!
Temple of the Moon.

This is a good example of the terrain just outside Cusco - mountainous
plains, scattered intermittently with small pre-Inkan ruins.

Thursday, September 18, 2008

Food: The Staple of Cusquenan Culture

To attempt to describe my experience in Cusco without mentioning food would be blasphemy to the people here. Food is such an important part of life; such a defining part of their culture that each meal has it's own verb, noun and adjective!
I have been blessed to have a gourmet cook for a host Mom while I'm down here. Not only is my diet not a problem to her, it's a challenge. While the other students have bread for breakfast and dinner, I have fried yucca, eggs, plantains, potatoes, mate de coca, and juice. Lunch is a three course meal (at least), and can take the better part of an afternoon to make, eat and clean up. Start with fruit, move to soup or salad, then take your main course (consisting of three entrees), then finish with fruit and mate de coca. Dinner is similar, except without the soup. If you don't eat a meal or try to refuse a certain dish, havoc ensues.
Fruit here is especially interesting - I have had a new type of fruit, most of whose names I can't pronounce or remember, nearly every day since coming here. In the morning, they take the fruit, peel it, mash it up and sometimes blend it, and pour it into your cup. I can complain about nothing food-wise - our regular diet is made of meat, potatoes, fruit, vegetables, rice, and random exotic things that I can't pronounce. It doesn't get much better than that!
Mate de coca is also a daily necessity here. Made from the leaves of coca plants, it apparently cures every ill you can come up with (or so they tell us). Actually, it is pretty impressive - so far it's helped me with altitude sickness, headaches, stomach aches and muscle aches. It can either put you to sleep at night or wake you up in the morning. They drink it after every meal to help with digestion, because even to them some of their foods are a bit harsh on the stomach. (And there's always a ton of it.)
I think the best part of their diet is how fresh it is. A daily trip to the market brings in every ingredient you need for the day. The meat is usually still in the shape of whatever animal it came from earlier that morning; tell the vendor what part you want and they chop it off, wrap it in paper and it's all yours. Milk is even better - come after 9 a.m. and you're too late, they've either sold it, it's gone bad, or they've made it into butter or cream or cheese. Our professor took us to the market one day for class, and I snapped a few pictures. They're not great, but they give a little glimpse of what it's like!

The Language of the Heart

I'm convinced that there's no feeling in the world like the one that comes from successfully conversing in another language. It's like feeling that you can conquer the world. You've overcome (or very nearly) what previously threatened to undo you, and with that victory the world seems to know no limits. You can soar, you can grow and glow and... thrive. Worlds open up to you, because you can delve into the lives of others, and open their eyes up to yours. You can communicate. Oh the millions of ways we take this gift of communication for granted! There's a reason it's the number one looked-for skill by employers, the number one struggle between most couples, and the number one way God chose to frustrate the prideful plans of man in the tower of Babel. We were made in the image of a God who loves to love us, and loves to build relationships with us. Without communication, this is pretty tricky. To learn a new language is to open up previously bolted doors to engaging entire communities in the language of the heart. For me, the process of learning a language is ridiculously difficult, but I get unspeakably excited with each new word I learn, and with each step of progress that first brought only tears and frustration. Sweet victory, word by word.

And although I am constantly making progress (praise God!), there are many times when my short vocabulary simply does not suffice. I walked into a tiny church on Sunday morning; a house church of only thirteen members. As I left, I thanked the pastor's wife for talking to me, because it's easy for people to get frustrated trying to talk to me and quit. She told me that she was trying to learn Korean, and that here, it didn't matter how well I spoke, because you don't always need words to communicate. This has been especially true of kids and of my host family, and it's a privilege to be able to communicate with them sometimes without ever opening my mouth. 

Wednesday, September 17, 2008

Daily Life

    A Successful Day at the Market


Fresh juice aisle in the market.
Fresh off the butcher's block! (yes, it's real.)

Sunday, September 7, 2008

First Days

What a blurr this first week has been! If every week proves to contain this many new experiences, the next four months will be the experience of a lifetime. Everything here is going well- classes started, and though difficult (four hours in the morning, three at night), it's nice to get some structure to the chaos of learning Spanish. My family is wonderful, and look after me as though I were their own granddaughter. Atilio especially is patient,and spends hours talking to me in Spanish. Nora loves to cook, which is absolutely essential in this culture. I have yet to taste something that I don't like, and everything is incredibly fresh and much healthier than I am used to. Meals are a big deal, and lunch on average takes an hour and a half, with a daily siesta following. I have had something new and strange nearly every single day since coming here!

I'll try and highlight a few things real quick; it's hard to know what to say when everything is so new and exciting! For our first project day, we went to a village called Conchacalla, about an hour and a half outside of Cusco in the Andes. We went to build them a stove and a bathroom for their school; the first their village has seen. It was really neat to see what eight "gringitas" could accomplish when pouring cement and hauling bricks. We were an unexpected surprise to the children, and our cameras a novelty. They clamored all over us, begging for pictures (which we gladly took), and touching our white skin and pale hair. They were an striking blend of poverty and beauty - their little faces and hands chapped and deeply marked from the cold and lack of moisture. They ran around barefoot, and as we were building their first bathroom, sanitation was not a big priority.
But they loved it, and it was such a blessing to be able to work with them for a day! I love that about this program - we get to do hands on physical labor, which to me feels like missions work, while at the same time learning the language and living with a family.

Every day proves to be a new experience. This truly is a modern city building its future on the rich culture of the past - traditional and modern live together in almost perfect harmony. Even the 30-40 minute walk to and from school every day is an adventure! On Thursday, after dodging the millions of taxis that drive through the city at breakneck speeds, I had to jump out of the way for a traditionally dressed shepherdess driving her flock of sheep through the city. Llamas wander the streets at will, along with pigs and donkeys in the rural areas. But it is by no means strictly farmlands. Business men and women, prestigious schools and modern communities thrive alongside the traditional lifestyles. My school, which hosts professionals, students and locals with its computer labs, libraries, printshops and classrooms, was originally built by the Incas. Their hand cut stones still form the base, and top was rebuilt by the Spanish after they destroyed the Inca empire.

Well I don't want to overwhelm you and I'm at a friends house on her computer, so I'll wrap it up. I miss you all and would love to hear from you if you ever care to drop me a line via facebook, email or snail mail. I've thrown in a few pictures, but they hardly come close to capturing the reality they reflect! They're also out of order, but they'll give you a small idea of what it is like here. Hope this blog finds you well, and God Bless!
Nikki

Has it truly only been one week???

Emmy - Little girls, big rocks.
I simply couldn't get enough of the kids!
Alli and Emily,on top of the world.
The playground for the school, the highest point of the village
You can't see it in this picture, but we poured the concrete for the bathroom on the left.

Filipe. (No idea how to spell that.)
Hauling rocks for underneath the bathroom floor.

The view from the roof of my school.
Jackie and Emily
One of many flocks of sheep... always tended by a traditionally dressed shepherd or shepherdess.
Just too precious.

La Festival de Santa Rosa- downtown Cusco.


My room! Already a little messy, but becoming home. A courtyard separates me from the rest of the house.
A typical Cusquenan street.


Same festival.